Two types of Pockets

Pockets can be decorative and/or functional. They are classified into two types with many variations of each.

  1. Inside Pockets
  2. Applied Pockets

Inside Pockets

Inside pockets are hidden "inside" the garment.  Some examples include the inseam pocket, and the slash pocket.

Inseam pockets occur at a seam, most commonly at the side seam of skirts and slacks.

There are two types of inseam pockets.

  1. Closed Inseam Pocket
  2. Open Inseam Pocket

Closed Inseam Pocket

  1. The pocket is cut as part of the garment requiring no separate pattern pieces.

The right sides of the back and the front are matched, then the seam and pocket are sewn on one step.
  1. The pocket is cut separately, then sewn to the side seam at 1.5 cm.

The pocket and seam are pressed outward. The back and front are matched and sewn right sides together.

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Open Inseam Pocket

The pocket pieces are different in shape. The fashion fabric is visible above the pocket; therefore, an overlay must be attached.

The pocket bag is hidden and can be made of a different fabric.


Image Source: Pixabay


Slash Pocket

Slashed pockets have a cut or slit in the garment and can be finished in various ways (welt, flap, pocket itself, or combination).


Standards for Evaluating Inseam/Inside Pockets

  1. Functional pockets are positioned at a location that suits the wearer.
  2. The opening for the pocket is large enough for the hand to fit.
  3. The openings are reinforced at both ends to prevent ripping.
  4. Seams lie flat with no puckers.
  5. Lining fabric is light weight, strong, and requires the same care as the garment fabric.
  6. The lining fabric of the pocket does not show on the right side.