Fabric Basics


 

Woven Fabric







A woven fabric consists of lengthwise threads (warp) intersecting with crosswise threads (weft).

The lengthwise threads are stronger and have limited stretch. The finished edges of a woven fabric are called the selvages. Bias is any diagonal direction. True bias is a 45 degree angle. True bias has the greatest stretch.

Image Source: Creative Commons By Yorick CC BY 2.0, ADLC labelled
When the threads cross one another at the perfect right angles the fabric is on-grain. If the threads do not form a right angle the fabric is off-grain.

It is essential the fabric be on-grain before cutting out a pattern. If the garment is cut off-grain, the garment will not hang correctly when worn.


 

Knit Fabric











Knit fabrics are formed by interlocking loops of yarn, called ribs or wales, which can be compared to the lengthwise threads in woven fabric.

The rows of loops at right angles to the ribs are called courses.  These are compared to crosswise threads in woven fabric.

 

Nonwoven Fabric






Some fabrics, like felt, are considered nonwoven.  A nonwoven fabric consists of fibers pressed together in no particular order.  A nonwoven fabric has no grainline.





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