Seam Finishes


A seam finish is a technique done on seam allowance edges to prevent fabric from raveling. It also makes the garment look neater and adds strength to the seam. The choice of seam finish will depend on the fabric, garment style, durability requirements, type of sewing machine available, and the attitude of the sewer.

Pinked Seam Finish


The pinked seam is done with pinking shears. It should only be done on fabrics with minimum fraying.

Untreated Seam Finish


The plain untreated seam is only effective on fabrics that do not ravel and garments which are fully lined. These garments are usually dry-cleaned.

Clean Finished Seam Finish


Each edge of the seam allowance is turned under slightly, pressed, and stitched at the edge. This method is done only on light-weight fabrics. It often is not recommended because it is bulky, often imprints to the right side, and is very difficult to do on curved seams.

Double Stitched Seam Finish


The double stitched seam is sewn twice, once at 1.5 cm and again at 1 cm. The extra seam allowance is trimmed off as illustrated. This seam finish is found on knits, jerseys, and tricot fabrics.

Overcast Seam Finish


This seam finish can be done either on single or both seam allowances. The built-in feature on the sewing machine stitches across as well as down the seam allowance. Overcasting can be done on fabrics that ravel readily.

Serged Seam Finish


A serger is required for this finishing method. This seam finish involves a needle thread and the upper and lower looper threads interlocking at the seam allowance edge. The excess seam allowance is cut off, reducing bulk. Seams can be serged separately or serged together.

Serging is a common finish in ready wear and in home sewing. It is quick to do and does prevent further raveling.
 
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Zigzagged Seam Finish


This is quick, simple, and effective way to reduce raveling of seam allowances. The sewing machine must have this built-in feature.

The seam finish is a series of alternately angled machine stitches which are done at the seam allowance edge. It can be done on a single seam allowance or on the two seam allowances together. This finish is suitable on fabrics which ravel readily.

Standards for Evaluating Seam Finishes

  1. The seam finish should prevent raveling.
  2. The seam finish should contribute to the neatness of the garment.
  3. The seam finish should not add bulk to the seam.
  4. The seam finish should suit the fabric, garment design, and intended use of the garment.
  5. Seams should be even in width and non-bulky.
  6. Seams should be stitched with correct stitch length with no puckers.
    

    Seam and Seam Finishes Videos


Stitching

 


Machine Stitching

 
Hand Stitching