Necklines


Necklines can be finished in a number of ways.

Bindings


A narrow strip of bias cut fabric is used to enclose the raw edges of a neckline. The same treatment can be used in the armhole. The binding is sewn to one side of the garment then folded over and pressed, then topstitched on the right side or handstitched on the wrong side.
Standards for Evaluating Bindings

  1. The width of the binding is even.
  2. The binding has been attached with appropriate stitch length and is secure.
  3. The binding suits the garment style, fabric weight, fibre content, and method of care.
  4. All raw edges are hidden.
  5. The binding fits the shape of the neckline.

Facings


A facing is a smooth inconspicuous finish for any opening. It is cut to fit the garment to where it will be sewn. The facing is often cut of the same fabric and is often interfaced, then joined at seam areas. The right side of the facing is matched and sewn to the right side of the garment. The enclosed seams are layered to different widths to eliminate bulk and clipped to allow for turning. The facing then is understitched to the seam allowances forcing the facing to stay in place. Top stitching can also be done.
Standards for Evaluating Facings

  1. The facing lays smooth with no rippling.
  2. The facing stays in place on the wrong side of garment.
  3. The outside edge of the facing is finished to eliminate raveling.
  4. If the garment is of heavy fabric, the facing is cut of lighter weight matching coloured fabric.
  5. The facing is understitched.
  6. The facing is interfaced.

Ribbing


A knitt garment is often finished this way. The ribbing is cut double the desired width. The length is based on the size of the head, arm, wrist, or waist, and the amount of stretch in the knit ribbing. The shoulder seams of the garment are sewn, the ribbing is seamed, then folded in half. The ribbing and the neckline each are divided and marked into quarters. The right sides of the garment and ribbing are matched at each quarter, sewn then finished.
Standards for Evaluating Rib-Stretch Bands

  1. The width of the band is even.
  2. The band is joined before it is joined to the garment.
  3. The band is the correct length for the neck, leg, waist, arm, or wrist.
  4. The seam allowance is neatly finished.

 


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Collars


Collars have many different looks. Some collars are flat, such as the Peter Pan collar; some are partially or fully standing, such as the Mandarin or band collar; and some are folded, such as the notched or shawl collar.

 


Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

Band Collar

 


Image Source: Pixabay

Flat Collar

 

 

Image Source: Pixabay

Shawl Collar


Flat collars are cut with a neckline edge nearly identical to that of the garment. The flat collar can be cut in one or two parts depending on the style. The collar is interfaced. The right sides of the upper and the lower collar are matched and sewn, then the seam allowances are layered, clipped, turned, understitched, and pressed. The collar is then positioned, pinned, and sewn to the neckline. A facing can be attached to enclose all raw edges.

Standing collars are usually interfaced for support and maintenance of shape. The basic shape is straight or slightly curved with the upper edge smaller than the neckline seam. Piping, ruffles, lace, or other trim can be added to the outer seam edge.
Standards for Evaluating Collars

  1. The collar is interfaced.
  2. The outer collar edge is smooth and even.
  3. The enclosed seams have been layered to reduce bulk.
  4. The size and shape of collar is the same on both sides. The sides are symmetrical.
  5. The collar fits the neck edge with no stretching or gathering.
  6. The collar is shaped as intended by the designer.
  7. All raw edges are concealed with a facing, binding, or an under collar.