Sleeves


Sleeve variations are countless. Sleeves may be short or long, full or fitted, cuffed or hemmed, set-in or cut-on, gathered, ruffled, pleated, darted, and vented.

Set-in Sleeve


The set-in sleeve is sewn at the underarm seam, then set into the armhole. The sleeve cap is generally basted so the ease can be evenly distributed. The highest point of the sleeve cap matches the shoulder seam of the bodice if the shoulder seam falls at the top of the shoulder. Some sewers find the set-in sleeve somewhat difficult to insert, but with practice and patience it can easily be done.

Standards for Evaluating Set-in Sleeves

  1. The design pattern on the sleeve is matched to the design pattern on the bodice for at least 5 cm.
  2. The bodice, shoulder, and side seams are sewn, finished, and pressed before the sleeve is inserted.
  3. The sleeve fits into the armhole

    1. with the high point of the sleeve matching the shoulder line of bodice
    2. with matching of the underarm and bodice seams
  4. The sleeve stitching is smooth with no dips or curves.
  5. The underarm seam is reinforced and trimmed to 5 mm to reduce bulk.
  6. The upper portion of the sleeve is trimmed to 1 cm and finished.
  7. The armhole seam is finished to eliminate raveling.
  8. The right sleeve is set into the right armhole and the left sleeve set into the left armhole.

© Thinkstock

Raglan Sleeve


The raglan sleeve is comfortable and simple to apply. The softly curved diagonal line extends from the underarm to the neckline. Careful pressing over a ham adds shaping.

Standards for Evaluating Raglan Sleeve

  1. If possible, the design lines in the sleeve are matched to the design lines of the bodice where the two areas are joined.
  2. The seam is smooth and flat with no puckers or ripples.
  3. The underarm seam is sewn after the diagonal sleeve seam is sewn, finished, and pressed.

Image Source: Pexels
 
Standards for Evaluating Kimono Sleeve

  1. The shoulder seam is smooth with no pulling or stretching.
  2. The kimono pattern allows for sufficient ease so the garment can be worn in comfort.
  3. The more fitted kimono has been reinforced in the underarm area.

Image Source: Pixabay

 

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