More on Hems


Hems in decorator fashions can be machine or hand stitched. The twice-folded, narrow machine stitched hem is popular, as are the hand slipstitched wider hem, and the applied bias binding.

In curtains, you might consider inserting a chain in the hem to add weight. This results in a nicer appearance.

Hem Finishes


The type of finish should be appropriate for the fabric, the hem location, garment design, and personal preference.

  • Applied lace, seam tape, or bias binding can be machine sewn to the fabric raw edge with approximately 0.5 cm overlap. The hem is then folded to desired depth and hand slipstitched or machine topstitched.

  • Machine topstitched hems can occur if topstitching is used elsewhere in the garment. If no topstitching is found on the garment, it is best not to machine topstitch the hem.

  • The built-in machine blind hem allows the hem to be done quickly! The hem is folded, pressed, and pinned in place. Careful positioning of the hem allows the "bite" of the machine blindstitch to catch the garment at regular intervals. This method only works with some fabrics. Test your fabric by making a sample, then evaluate the success.

  • The hand slipstitched hem is quite inconspicuous and used in couture fashions. The thread is hidden in the fabric fold, picking up only one thread of the garment fabric every 1 cm. These hand stitches are barely visible on the right side of the garment.

  • The twin needle makes a nice hem on knits. The two lines of stitching offer stretchability and simple decoration.

Standards for Evaluating Hems and Hem Finishes

  1. The hemline of the garment is parallel to the floor during wearing.
  2. The hem is even in depth.
  3. The hem is flat and smooth with no puckers or pleats.
  4. The hem type is appropriate for the garment fabric and style.
  5. The hem finish is appropriate for the garment fabric and hem type.
  6. Excess bulk and thread tails have been eliminated.
  7. The stitch used is even and neat.
  8. The fabric edge will not fray because it has been folded, serged, or covered with tape or lace.